Climbing in Magnesia & Mount Pelion

Cover PelionClimbDescriptionIf you ask a Greek person which is the most beautiful place in mainland Greece for sure you will stumble immediately on the name of Mount Pelion (or Pilio) in Magnesia area. Touristic, magic, wild, crowded and secret in the same time Pelion has everything for everybody. I just can’t imagine any other place in the world where you can swim in the sea, rock climb and ski all in the same day and all in a 20km space. Ok, this page is about climbing so I will glorify the region another time and now I will talk about the climbing part.

Despite the general lack of information, in Magnesia and Pelion there are many beautiful places for rock climbing and bouldering. Over 10 different areas with more than 500 routes make out of Pelion a place worth visiting if you are a climber, not to mention the dozens of virgin rocks inviting climbers with creative minds and strong hands to drill new routes.

The routes are for almost everybody: starting from beautiful and long 5a-5c, perfect for the greenhorns to get a little yellow, continuing with challenging 6a-6c, good for the yellow ones to get even more yellow ;), followed by a lot of serious 7a-8a to put your muscles to the test. For Chuck Norris unfortunately there are not many choices in Pelion … so if you are focus only on 8b and higher you will need to wait while the local climbers are growing bigger muscles or wings by the case : )

The Pelion peninsula is full of hidden limestone crags sometimes located directly near the sea, and other times high in the mountains. You will find crags just everywhere from the outskirts of Volos to the most remote accessible places in North Pelion. You will climb here on pocketed walls, overhanging tuffa grottos, grey slabs, sloppery boulders, sea boulders and some other staffs with too weird geological names to be mentioned here.

Now that I finish the short description let’s check the main climbing areas in Pelion (I listed so far just the major places, the smaller places will follow):

St Nicolas: This is the oldest crag in the area (I mean it’s the first bolted) it’s located just outside Volos, 10 minutes by car from the center of the town, along a beautiful canyon with nearly 60 routes. Due to its proximity to Volos this crag is for sure the most popular place for climbing in the area. Beside the majority of sport climbing routes there are 3 or 4 multipitch routes up to 100 m high. Check here the detail to of St. Nikolas crag

Details, map (on Google) and pictures:

Grades Nb of routes
4a - 6a+ 35
6b - 7a+ 24
7b - 7c+ 7
8a - 8b 2


Agria: Locate above the village of Agria (just 5 km from Volos) the crags are offering a pleasures climbing on grey limestone. The landscape is also very nice since the place is surrounded by olive trees plantations and offers a marvelous view to the sea. 

Details & map (on Google):

Grades Nb of routes
5a - 6a+ 17
6b - 6b+ 7
6c - 6c+ 7
7a - 7b+ 4


Milies: Located next to the picturesque Milies Village the crag is made out of red and white limestone rock, very similar to marble, with crimps and slightly overhanging terrain for the lower sector and tufas, on a severely overhanging one, at the upper sector.

Details & map (on Google):

Grades Nb of routes
6a+ - 6b 3
6c - 7a+ 3
7b - 7b+ 4
7c - 7c+ 4


Milopotamos: Sea cliff climbing on one of the most beautiful beaches of Greece, perfect to combine a day of swimming and sun with climbing. If climbing on the main beach arch in the summers days you will need to fight the numerous sun bathers, relaxing under the rocks, to access the routes. 

Details & map (on Google):

Grades Nb of routes
5a - 6a+ 8
6b - 6b+ 4
6c - 6c+ 4
7a - 7b+ 5


Mikro beach: This crag is located on Sout Pelion and is one of the newest one bolted. It's compose of two sectors, first one located 500m above the sea and second one is situated directly on a wild beach. The place offers a fantastic opportunity for climbing and relaxation. 40 routes for all tastes and an amazing beach makes out of Mikro one of the best climbing destinations in Pelion.

Details & map (on Google):

Grades Nb of routes
4a - 5c+ 7
6a - 6b+ 16
6c - 7b+ 17
8a - 8a+ 1


Paou cave: Located near the village of Argalasti 40 km from Volos, Paou cave offer one of the most challenging sports climbing routes in Pelion: overhanging tuffa walls for strong arms and good technique.

Details & map (on Google):

Grades Nb of routes
5c - 6b+ 2
6c - 6c+ 3
7a - 7b+ 9
8a - 8a+ 2

 


Other areas in Pelion for climbing (we will add the description for each area in the nex few weeks): Makranitsa, Koukourava, Sarakinos Cave, Vathirema, Kaliakouda, Panagia Goritsa, Xenia Monastery and Almyros. Also soon we will create a separate page for each crag where we will include a detail access maps and a top so climbers can easy find the way to the beautiful climbing places in Pelion and Magnesia. 

 

Contact

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